Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin, Chablis, Montée de Tonnerre, 1er Cru, 2019
This is from the Côte de Bréchain vineyard in the middle of the Montée de Tonnerre, notable for its blue clay soil. The nose is earthy and spicy, with bacon fat reduction. The wine is powerful and rich, with stinging freshness and smoky oak; spicy reductive notes dominate the finish. It’ll require patience, but there’s enormous potential here.